Art Food Culture Retreat Sketching with Paul Wang
June is a beautiful month to be in Hoi An. The rice fields are in full emerald splendour, the lotus flowers in bloom and the tropical fruits in abundance. Paul Wang is my favourite Urban Sketcher and I was delighted when he agreed to work with me on an Art Food Culture Retreat. His holistic approach to sketching, deep sensitivities and his enthusiasm for Vietnam meant this was going to be a fabulous retreat. And it was!.
The first thing we did when we met in Hoi An was double check we were both ok with our chosen locations. We wanted to make sure they were suitable for our guests. Things change rapidly in one of the fastest growing economies in the world….and Hoi An has an extraordinarily high turn over of cafes and eateries. Where once I could not find a western style coffee, I now can barely find a Vietnamese style coffee in the Old Town.
We greeted our guests at the reception and had a few relaxing drinks. The Paul Wang designed and ArtFoodCulture hand poured Daniel Smith watercolour palettes were distributed, and introductions happened before heading out for our first dinner and walking tour of the old town of Hoi An.
Our first sketching session took place in the UNESCO heritage town of Hoi An. An old building converted into a cafe. We enjoyed coconut coffee’s and Pauls excellent lesson before heading out into the local area to put our new knowledge into practice. We headed to Banh Mi Phuong for lunch. Some loved it, and others wondered what the big deal was. Banh Mi Phuong was made famous by Anthony Bourdain a number of years ago. I can say that it is not what it was….though, it is still good.
The trading history and international community is well worth taking note of when visiting Hoi An. The Chinese assembly halls on Tran Phu street along with the temples and pagodas are wonderful architectural examples we wanted to sketch. We headed out for another brilliant workshop by Paul Wang, before walking through the old town for a lunch at Streets International. A social initiative restaurant helping disadvantaged young people with hospitality training.
The Hoi An Central Market is a bustling working market for the local food industry. Locals shop there for family meals as well. It also happens to be very tourist friendly, due solely to the vast number of tourists that go through each day. Over the years I have watched its roof become more sturdy, its pathways become less slippery and its produce (mainly fresh fruits) being sold in tourist friendly portions. I adore the women who work in the markets, I predominantly sketch them, and little else when I am in Vietnam. I think I especially love to connect with them because, food is my great love. Take a look at our lesson and results on a market sketching day.
Markets are filled with fresh herbs. Vietnamese food is all about the fresh herbs. So, of course, we must visit the herb village where the herbs are grown. I have been visiting Tra Que Herb Village ever since I first visited Hoi An. It has changed over the years, but the original restaurant and tourist hub still exists. Mrs Thuong looks after my groups, as we sketch, sip herbal concoctions, learn about rice paper making and organic herb farming. It is always a lovely relaxing day.
Ancient Cham Mi Son ruins located close to Hoi An are a must visit. An early start will help with the intense heat of the day, and will ensure a lovely relaxing time amongst the incredible history and culture of the Cham people. Lunch was Mi Quang. The Central Vietnam specialty. One of the best local eateries serving Mi Quang just happens to be roadside, on the way back from Mi Son. Delicious!
Thanh Ha pottery village is a fun place for sketchers. The repetition of shapes as pots stand out drying, the friendly welcoming artisans, and the old people who mill around mean there is always plenty to capture.
A trip to Hoi An is not compete without one of the best cooking classes in town. Linh has been a friend for years, and gives fun relaxing classes in her family home. It also doubles as an eco farm, basket boat experience and a team building venue.
Its hard to find an authentic "unchanged by tourism” place in Hoi An . But the fabulous Etienne Bossot from Pics of Asia told me about a fishing village that is everything you would expect of Vietnam. Market people haggling over prices loudly, big boats, small boats, coracle boats, fish markets, gambling, coffee drinking, delicious snacks, cranky people who have been up all night, and deliriously tired people who care not for a bunch of tourists wandering around sketching them. We found a restaurant that is only used in the evenings that made a fabulous workshop space. Perfect! My kind of place. You love it or hate it. Chefs…you are going to LOVE it. Bring me some coffee, because I know it will be strong, so so strong!
Marble Mountains in Danang, just up the road from Hoi An. We visited, we stood in awe, we sketched, we drank coconuts, we took whacky posing photos of each other…. The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five marble and limestone hills and are named after the five elements, Kim, Thuy, Moc, Hoa and Tho.
Our final day, we headed back into the Old Town of Hoi An. Ive included some photos of the amazing workshop Paul lead on Phan Boi Chau street. This is where you can find Precious heritage Museum and The March Gallery. Two places well worth visiting. We had a sketchbook session back at the hotel and reviewed our work before heading out for a final dinner at the fabulous E Village, a new establishment in Hoi An specialising in regional dishes and maintaining a sustainable ethic in its operations.
If you would like to join an Art Food Culture Retreat, fully hosted by Anna, then go see what is currently open for bookings. We always have a new artist, or new experience showcasing the fantastic Central Vietnam. Vietnam Retreats Here
