Art Food Culture Retreat Vietnam Sketching with James Richards
March is one of the best times of year to be in Hoi An. The weather is not yet too hot, and the rainy season is over. James Richards is one of the most popular Urban Sketchers, and after having taken his Bluprint online class, I knew that ArtFoodCulture needed to ask him to be the principle tutor for a 10 day retreat.
I greeted James and his wife Patti in Hoi An, and we did some last minute location research before our guests arrived.
Next it was time to greet my guests. The early arrivals were treated to local market experiences and street food breakfasts. Kathryn tastes a Sinh To Dam. Its a fresh fruit mix with ice, coconut cream and sweetened condensed milk.
We came together at the beginning of the retreat in the courtyard of our locally run homestay. Guests received their welcome package of a traditional Vietnamese hat (non La) a mini cookbook, sketching pen, locally made organic room spray and soap, a reusable cotton bag made in a local charity workshop, and a few other things… We introduced ourselves, then it was time for a stroll through the UNESCO Ancient town of Hoi An and our first dinner together.
Our first day of sketching took us straight into the old town. How could one resist those gorgeous historic yellow buildings that Hoi An is so famous for? We Sketched the Japanese bridge, some of us relaxed in nearby cafes and drank coconuts and coffees whilst sketching. Good fun!
The next day we headed back into town to sketch one of the Chinese assembly halls on Tran Phu street. It was a little hotter than some expected, and jet lag was setting in, so after our sketch we went back for a good rest before dinner.
I always make sure my groups eat at least one meal at Streets International on le Loi street in Hoi An. It is a social initiative training restaurant where disadvantaged young people are given training and board until completion. Most get jobs in 5 star resorts or open their own businesses as a result. It is a life changing opportunity and something I will always support.
It’s also essential that I orient everybody towards Banh Mi Phuong. Right? This is the Vietnamese sandwich place that Anthony Bourdain made famous by declaring how superb it was. It happened to be a small market stall in the old market at the time…. and now its a large thriving 2 story restaurant with 4 banh mi carts and a zillion workers… but still, its important we eat there, don’t you think?
Its time now for a visit to the market. The market of central Hoi An is a working market. Fairy authentic still, it is where nearly all the food for the fancy restaurants, along with the street vendors comes from. It can be confronting for a foreigners senses, who is used to meat wrapped in plastic wrap, and fish presented as a fillet, rather than still swimming around….but oh my gosh, it is one of my favourite places to hang out and chat, and it is also the best place to sketch in my opinion. Over the years I have formed many good relationships with market vendors. I suspect its a chef thing….or maybe it is because I take the time to observe and connect via sketching.
The next day we took a trip to the ancient Cham ruins Mi Son. I asked our guide to find us a nice quiet spot for James to give his morning lesson. I had some good ideas based on previous experience, but he insisted on a special spot for us. He choose a pavilion with around 300 other tourists, loudly chatting away before the Cham dancing and music show began! Oh well, James did remarkably well considering the extreme noise levels, and it was a pleasant day wandering around the ruins amongst the lush tropical jungle surrounds. I am choosing the spot in future…
Vietnam is a country where there are still many minority group cultures intact. One such culture is the Co Tu. Rehanh Photography introduced me to this incredible group of people, and when ever possible, an ArtFoodCulture Retreat will involve an overnight stay in a Co Tu village.
Within reach of Hoi An are the Marble Mountains. A place revered for is 5 element mystics, and a place with stories of war, beauty and nature. A place that must be sketched.
When in Hoi An, the choice of cooking classes can overwhelm. I have know Linh for almost 10 years now, and she is one of the best home cooks I know. Her cooking classes came together a few years ago on her Eco family farm land. Its a sanctuary, where cooking class students can also enjoy a basket boat experience, a walk over a traditional bamboo bridge, and relax amongst the herbs.
Hoi An is well known for its delicious cuisine. One element that makes Vietnamese cuisine superb overall is the extensive use of herbs. In Hoi An, there is a Herb Village. A cooperative. It supplies most of the vendors and restaurants with fresh herbs. We visit the original tourist destination where Mrs Thuong takes care of our groups. We learn about gardening and making rice paper whilst also taking time to sketch and enjoy a delicious seafood lunch abundant with fresh herbs grown in the village.
